MATCHING TUCKS
Matching the tucks at the shoulder seams can be the biggest challenge you encounter when making Collars, Etc. Tuck Dress. To lay the groundwork for perfect matching, the tucks must be marked and sewn with precision. If you evaluate the tuck markings, you will note that the dotted stitching lines for each tuck are ½" apart, which means the tucks are ¼" tucks. I mark a line halfway between the stitching lines, which would be the foldline for the tucks, instead of marking the stitching lines. Fold the fabric on the foldlines that have been marked and stitch ¼" away from the fold to create tucks. Press each tuck individually and then press tucks on each side away from center.
 Place the front and back right sides together at the shoulder seams and pin each side of each tuck alternating the direction of the pins. If you have problems matching the tucks, let the tucks get "off-track" near the neck edge as this area is easier to conceal with the collar. Stitch a ½" plain seam. I advise against French seaming at the shoulder seams for the Tuck Dress as it is nearly impossible to match up the tucks when making a French seam, not to mention the multiplication of bulk created with the presence of tucks. My choice is a plain seam that is made neat with simple zig-zagging. You may click on the picture for an enlarged view.
 Check the position of the tucks and make adjustments if needed. If the tucks line up, press seam flat to meld the stitches and then press seam open. Click on the picture for an enlarged view of the finished seams.
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